The History of the Pussycat Bow Shirt
There are many variants of the Pussycat bow from casual to formal, from the narrow to the fullest bow, in cotton or expensive silks. Many designers have included one style or another in their collections from Gucci to Chanel. There was a huge media fuss around the $1,100 fuchsia pink crepe-de-chine silk Pussycat bow Gucci shirt that Melania Trump wore at a presidential debate. (Look that one up on Google)
The Pussycat Bow dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries when both men and women wore a necktie as an accessory. The cravat and the stock tie were very similar to the Pussycat bow.
It is also recorded that the Pussycat Bow was inspired by the French ‘Lavaliere’ bow of the 19th century. This bow was a type of cravat, similar to a bow tie but with a larger knot and large droopy sides. The length of the scarf can be a whopping 1.6m long. The name is associated with the Duchess of La Valliere, who was the mistress of Louis XIV. This type of bow was mainly worn by women, artists, students, and intellectuals associated with the political left in 19th century France.
The bow proved to be so popular for the masses that in 1934 the St Petersburg Times advertised a pattern for a collar that could be worn in four different ways, one being the feminine Pussycat Bow which tied high under the chin. Every female wanted to be ‘in fashion’.
In the 70s and 80s, women progressed in the workplace to leadership and executive roles. They felt the need to dress like men to be taken seriously which marked the beginning of the ‘Power Suit’ with its sharp shoulder pads. The Pussycat Bow resembled a tie and portrayed a powerful image but in a soft and feminine way. The bow became a symbol of feminism. Margaret Thatcher, the first female PM of the UK was known for her love of the Pussycat bow blouse. She felt it was ‘rather softening’ and pretty. A powerful woman in a man’s world. Her favourites were from Aquascutum.
During the 50s and 60s, Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent took inspiration from the late 19th Century Gibson Girls who wore the Pussycat bow. Yves Saint Laurent made it a part of his famous signature look ‘Le Smoking’ a radical design that was debuted in the 60s, dressing women in pantsuits similar to a man’s tuxedo.
And today in 2022 the Pussycat bow lives on. The bigger and more outrageous the better. Fashion is theatre, with costume designers and stylists using them in the recent Netflix film and tv productions like ‘The Lost Daughter’ featuring Olivia Colman and Dakota Johnson. You know its a keeper as Miu Miu showcased their silky Pussybow blouses on the S/S 2022 runway, pairing them with long suede coats and oversized bomber jackets. I think they would look good with the Miu Miu micro mini that everyone is lusting after, especially the revamped versions as shown on the A/W Paris runway.
After two years of Covid and its restrictions, we need the glamour. Bows are a badge of optimism. Bows still represent power, romance and femininity, they are demure, sexy and extroverted.